As ever, you’ll be able to to order all Screwfix’s great deals from the web, with free next-day delivery on orders over £50. This is why Screwfix is recognised as the UK’s leading multi-channel supplier of thousands of high-quality screws, fixings, hand tools, power tools, plumbing and electrical supplies… in fact, almost anything you can think of when it comes to DIY. No wonder it’s where the trade buys!

Of course, you can also view and purchase all Screwfix’s products on the website – but sometimes it’s nice to have a catalogue to hand, especially if you fancy a visit to one of Screwfix’s stores (all 215+ of them!).

And, as if that wasn’t enough, Screwfix are running a Tools & Gadgets promotion now with loads of brilliant knick-knacks to gladden the heart of even the most world-weary DIYer.

Click on the banner to find out more!

First of all, scrape out the grout from around the damaged tile, preferably using a grout rake – they’re cheap and readily available from any good DIY supplier. Removing the grout reduces the chances of damaging the surrounding tiles in the next stage, and you’ll need to remove it anyway so that you can apply fresh grout when you come to press the new tile into place.

Now take a cold chisel and chip out the old tile, working from the middle. Don’t be tempted to work from the outside, and above all don’t be tempted to prise out the old tile from the edge – you’ll most likely damage the tile next to it.

Having done that, remove the tile adhesive from the wall or floor the tile was stuck to, using a vacuum cleaner to clear any remaining dust or chips.

Spread adhesive over the back of the new tile, then press it firmly into the recess, wiping away any excess adhesive that splurges out. After it’s set, you can then apply fresh grout.

If the tiled area is in a shower, leave the grout to set for about a week before using the shower again, otherwise it won’t harden properly.

Apron flashings

These are probably the simplest of all flashings, used where the top of a lean-to roof meets the wall. The top edge of the flashing is pointed into the joint two courses above the head of the roof, and the flashing is then dressed down to overlap the tiles (or other covering) by at least 150mm (6″).

Abutments

This is where a pitched roof comes up against a wall. There are two basic types of flashing used here, depending on the steepness of the roof pitch and the material used:

Double-lap flashings

Double-lap flashings are made in two parts. Soakers are straightforward sheets of metal (lead or zinc) folded at right angles along their length so that a face 75mm high (3″) – known as the upstand – can be presented to the wall, with the other face placed flat on the tile, covering at least 100mm (4″) away from the wall. The higher edge on the sheet is turned down over the upper edge of the tile to help retain it in position. The sheet should therefore be long enough to cover the overlap from the tile above, plus 15-25mm (½-1″) for the turndown. A stepped flashing is then dressed over it, with the top edges secured into the bed joints with lead wedges and mortar pointing.

Double-lap flashings are suitable for roofs pitched at over 30° and with plain tiles or slates.

Single-lap flashings

Single-lap flashings are used for roofs with contoured tiles (eg pantiles). The flashing is stepped into the wall and then dressed over the tile. The width of flashing required may be higher: 150mm or more in the case of a shallow roof, and in any case at least to the first raised contour.

Chimney flashings

As you’d expect, these are a little bit more complex, but not too much. The front of the chimney gets an apron flashing that extends beyond the sides of the chimney stack, with the ends of the upstand folded round the sides of the stack. The sides of the chimney are covered with single or double-lap flashings as appropriate.

The back needs a gutter, which is made by turning the front part of the lead up the back wall of the chimney to create an upstand and covering it with a separate flashing pointed into the back wall. The back part of the gutter follows the pitch of the roof and, as you might expect, is overlapped by the tiles above it in the usual way.

Valley flashings

These are less common than the other types and are found where two roofs meet at an angle. Boarding is constructed to run down the pitch of the roof from the ridge to the eaves, with fillets nailed along both long edges. The sheeting is then dressed over the fillets. The roof slates or tiles are cut so that they overhang the valley but are separated by a gap of at least 100mm (4″).

What are flashings?

In their simplest terms, flashings are sheets of material that are put in place to cover the abutment between the roof and an adjacent surface. They come in a variety of types to cope with the range of different possible angles that occur on a roof, and can be made out of several different materials. Let’s look at the materials first.

Flashing materials

Lead

Traditionally, the best flashings were made of lead – as a soft and malleable metal it’s easily worked into the desired shape (though working out the desired shape is a skill in itself!) and is long-lasting in all weather conditions. But it’s relatively expensive.

Zinc

Zinc is a good deal cheaper than lead. But it’s less flexible and less hard-wearing, and arguably looks cheaper than lead too. If your zinc flashings are worn out, you may find that it’ll be cheaper in the long run to replace them with lead and save the cost of future repairs.

Mortar

Cheap and easily applied, these are common on older pitched roofs, and may have cut tiles set into them for further water deflection. But they can be problematic because of shrinkage as they age.

Felt

These are unwieldy and don’t have much application beyond the simple cover flashings over the skirtings of flat felt roofs.

We’ll have a look at the various types of flashing and the joins they cover next time.

Many of us regard them as unsightly and inconvenient.

Unsightly, because the plug’s got to be put somewhere on or in the sink when it’s not in use, and an ugly lump of rubber or black plastic detracts from what could otherwise be a beautiful bathroom. Plus, of course, the chain traps hairs and collects limescale like nobody’s business – and has to be attached somewhere, unless you’re going to leave it dangling uselessly, getting in the way when you try to put it in the hole.

Inconvenient, because – well, who of us hasn’t caught an overly shortened chain when washing and pulled the plug out by mistake?

That’s why more and more people are turning to pop-up plugs – the ones operated by a handy knob-topped lever behind the taps which you pull up when you want to stop the water running out of the sink, and push down when it’s time to get rid of it down the drain.

Unfortunately, it’s a bit more complex to remove the pop-up plug altogether when the need arises. But it should still be well within the capabilities of most people – in fact, provided your pop-up design isn’t too esoteric and some over-zealous installer hasn’t over-tightened things, you may even find you don’t even need any tools.

All (or almost all) the action takes place underneath the sink and behind the waste pipe. There are three main parts to the linkage assembly:

A) A pushrod operated from above by pushing or pulling the knob on the end;

B) A pivoting rod that passes through the wall of the wastepipe and moves the sink stopper up or down;

C) A strip of metal with multiple holes connecting the two

The first thing to do is disconnect the lever from the plug. There are three stages to this:

1. Locate the vertical pushrod A that passes down from above the sink. Somewhere along its length you should find a locking screw D which connects that rod to the vertical linking strip C. Slacken the locking screw.

2. Remove the spring-clip E that holds the linking strip C in position on the pivoting rod B by squeezing the two ends towards each other and sliding it off rod B.

3. For reassembly purposes, make a note of which of strip C’s holes rod B passes through. You should now be able to slide strip C off the end of rod B, with a bit of manipulation.

Now you’re ready to move to the next stage: removing the pivoting rod from the stopper.

A word of warning here! Before you do this, make sure that you shove something between the rim of the plughole and the stopper to make sure that the stopper stands proud of the plughole – otherwise you may well face a struggle to remove the stopper after you’ve taken the pivoting rod out.

Look at the back of the waste pipe coming down from the sink. You should see that rod B runs through a ball joint held in position by a knurled ring (F). Undo the ring, then simply pull the rod out of the socket in the base of the stopper. You should now be able to remove the stopper from the plughole.

Reassembly is simply a matter of reversing the process above.

Having calculated the amount of insulation you need and bought the necessary number of rolls, you can now take it up into the loft and open your first roll. (Don’t be tempted to open it up to have a look at it before you get it up there. It expands when the wrapping is breached!)

Place the free end between a pair of joists, pointing into the eaves, but don’t block the ventilation gap – remember what we said about allowing proper circulation of air through the loft? You can either trim the end of the roll down to a bevel edge (cheaper, but more fiddly) or else fit eaves vents.

You can now unroll the blanket along the run of the joists, remembering to keep electrical wires and fittings clear of the blanket to avoid overheating. Make sure it fits snugly, but don’t press it down too hard – the air within the blanket adds to the insulating effect, and expelling the air by compressing it lessens the insulation. If the roll’s a bit wider than the joists, let it curl against both of them to left and right.

When you come to the end of your first roll, butt the start of the next one up against it and roll it out towards the other side of the loft. Don’t forget to make sure that air is allowed to circulate through the other set of eaves!

If there’s an obstacle that gets in the way of the blanket (like the cold-water tank or the top casings of light fittings, for instance), or an odd space that needs filling, you can trim the blanket to fit using a large knife or suitably sized shears/scissors.

Likewise, you may want to cut a suitably shaped piece of blanket to insulate your loft hatch cover; you can use gaffer tape, drawing pins or adhesive to hold it in place.

Buy your loft insulation materials from Screwfix Direct!

Visit their website for more details and to use their free search function to find accommodation.

Here are just some of the great deals on offer from Screwfix Direct – where the trade buys!

DeWalt XRP 18V Li-Ion Cordless Combi Drill – SAVE £150!

Powerful, excellent value tool with Dewalt XRP technology for hammer-drilling and screwdriving applications. Features all-metal gearing, mechanical safety clutch and LED work light.

• 1 x 2.0Ah Li-ion battery
• 40min charger
• 3-speed variable
• 13mm keyless chuck
• 22 torque settings
• Electric brake
• Replaceable brushes
• Fan-cooled motor
• Rubber-coated grip

What our customers are saying

‘Fantastic Value’ – Trade reviewer

‘No Brainer’ – Trade reviewer

‘Robust design and build. Comfortable and easy to handle’ – DIY reviewer

Was £299.99 – Now only £149.99!

Direct Power DPB084DRL 750W Percussion Drill 230V – UNDER £20

Adjustable front handle and depth stop.

• Variable speed
• 13mm keyless chuck
• Lock-on switch
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Was £24.97 – Now £19.97!

Sparky 10.8V Li-ion Drill Driver Starter Kit – SAVE £115

10.8V lithium-ion cordless drill driver starter kit. Supplied with 25 piece accessory set, laser level tape measure, tripod and multi-tray steel cantilever tool box.

• 2 x 1.3Ah Li-Ion batteries
• 1hr charger
• Variable speed
• 17 torque settings
• 7.5m laser level tape measure
• 25-piece drill & bit set
• 6 x 6mm HSS titanium-coated drill bits
• 3 x 6mm sockets
• 13 assorted driver bits
• Hex adapter & screw guide

Was £184.96 – Now £69.96!

DIY Starter Kit 108 Pieces – SAVE 10%

For screwdriving and drilling in metal, wood and masonry. Includes 500W impact drill. Supplied in plastic case.

• 500W impact drill: 230-240V, no load speed 0-2900 rpm, variable speed,13mm key chuck – quick change
• 8″ carbon steel adjustable wrench
• 6″ long nose carbon steel pliers
• 6″ combination carbon steel pliers
• 5m measure tape
• 19 x HSS 4241 bits in case
• 8 x masonry drill bits
• 8 x wood drill bits (masonry and wood bits in one case)
• 6 x wood flat bits in case
• 48 x chrome vanadium screwdriver bits in case
• 4 x holesaws
• 2 x 75mm chrome vanadium screwdriver
• Arbor
• 5 x depth stops
• Countersink

Was £24.90 – Now £21.16!

9.5kW Redring Slimline Electric Shower – SAVE 20%

Redring Slimline 650. Ultra slimline instant electric shower. Fully temperature stabilised, 3 power settings and ultra slim profile. Overheat protection, push-button power selection and on/off, timed phase shut-down, LED power indicator. W x D x H: 210 x 70 x 365mm. Shower head dia: 70mm.

• Push-button power control, 3 settings
• Rotary heat control, 3 settings
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• WRAS & BEAB Approved

Was £129.24 – Now £103.39!

Traditional Acrylic 2 TH 1690mm Roll Top Bath – SAVE 50%

Acrylic.

• 1690 x 750mm
• Back-to-wall design
• 1-year manufacturer’s guarantee

Was £612.00 – Now £299.00!

Ryobi 43cm SP Lawn Mower – SAVE £50

Ryobi 140cc petrol self-propelled lawn mower with 45cm cutting diameter.

• 3.2hp OHV engine
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• Metal deck

Was £209.98 – Now £159.58!

DeWalt DC728KA 14.4V Cordless Drill Driver

High performance, compact, lightweight and professional drill driver with all-metal gearbox. Chuck features automatic spindle lock. Supplied with carry case.

• 2 x 1.3Ah Ni-Cd batteries
• 1hr charger
• 2-speed
• 10mm ratcheting chuck
• 17 torque settings
• Electric brake
• Fan-cooled motor
• Rubber-coated grip

Was £139.98 – Now £79.98!

Response Wire-Free Alarm SA2 – SAVE £50

Solar-powered siren, 2 x PIRs, 2 x magnetic door contacts, remote control, single zone keypad, CD installation guide, fixing kit and batteries. Comes with wire-free kit for up to 4 rooms.

Was £149.99 – Now £99.99!

Get a free Garmin Nuvi 200 Sat Nav when you spend over £500 online before 23.59 on Sunday 11 July!

Affordable, easy to use refurbished Sat Nav with route preference (faster time, shorter distance) and customisable vehicle options.

• Pre-loaded with UK & Ireland mapping
• 3.5″ touchscreen display
• Pre-loaded with safety cameras
• Hot-fix (Quick Fix)
• Garmin lock
• Refurbished
• 1-year warranty

Nüvi 200, 12V car adaptor and mount included.

Find out more about this not-to-be-missed offer!

Free Sat Nav Terms & conditions

Only one free Sat Nav per transaction.
Offer cannot be redeemed against delivery charges or Gift Vouchers.
Offer cannot be redeemed in conjunction with any other voucher or promotion and is subject to availability.
Offer only valid via www.screwfix.com.
Offer valid until 23.59 Sunday 11 July 2010.
Offer is open to all UK residents aged 18 years or over except employees of Screwfix Direct or their families and anyone professionally involved with this promotion.
There is no cash alternative.
This voucher can only be used once.
If an item is returned for refund, which brings the total actually spent below the qualifying level, the offer value may be deducted from the refund.
Promoter: Screwfix Direct Limited.
Trade House, Mead Avenue, Houndstone Business Park, Yeovil BA22 8RT (Registered in England, No: 3006378).

Well, you shouldn’t forget it altogether. If you leave your wet central heating system standing idle all the way through the summer, the lubricant around the pump’s bearings will settle, leaving surfaces unlubricated. And if that happens, you’re increasing the chance that the pump will seize when you place it under a heavy load again in the autumn.

So do yourself a favour – once a month, run it for a few minutes (without firing up the boiler, of course!) to ensure that the pump’s bearings stay lubricated through the summer. That way, you can be sure you’ll be able to heat your house when the cooler weather sets in again.